Hello London Fashion Week – we’ve missed you. I rocked up early to see the first show of the week – Zoë Jordan. And we’ll wax lyrical about it in another blog later on – even the music was amazing – but for now, here’s a few day one highlights.
For anyone who hasn’t run the gauntlet of Somerset House’s Courtyard, where some of the shows are held, it’s stuffed full of fashion folk wearing outlandish outfits, journos, photographers, models and the odd confused member of the public hoping to go to the art gallery. There is also a lot going on behind the schemes with very exclusive viewings and presentations by some of fashion’s finest.
So by the time I took my place for the first show, magazine insiders had got a peek of Markus Lupfer and McQ’s latest creations…which featured patent navy leather, matchy-matchy separates, snakeskin prints, signature quirky knitwear and geometric shapes in the case of Lupfer and military-inspired tailoring, shearing and black equestrian wear shapes with a twist at McQ. Yum.
McQ & Markus Lupfer
The new colour blocking
Zoë Jordan’s collection was beautifully architectural with coats to die for! Patches of plaid, pink and tangerine pieces coupled with interesting architecturally-inspired prints and practical leather pieces shot to the top of the audience’s shopping list. It was one of the most wearable yet inspiring collections I’ve seen lately and there were even a couple of striking evening gowns. Something for everyone. But my favourite was this super minimalist snow-white ensemble, below, that’s not even at little bit Disney.
There was also colour blocking of a very different kind at Felder Felder. I was pleased to see the brand’s floaty nature-inspired prints, mixed with rubber, practical knits, suede and calfskin (I think; that fashionable hairy-stuff…it looked good on the catwalk but it’s not for me!) lots of quilting and metallics. I adored the cranberry and earthy colour palette with the occasional flash of matte silver.
New new colour blocking. Zoe Jordan and Felder Felder
Of course designers’ influences are many, but Bora Aksu, KTZ, Eudon Choi and Fydor Golan’s collections all seemed to be inspired by far-flung places and certainly did little to dampen my wanderlust.
Bora Aksu’s collection included some extreme corset shapes – in velvet and fur with a focus on the lacing, mixing 1920s influences with his Turkish heritage. The colour palette was largely neutral, with the exception of some punchy pinky-purple numbers but the latest collection seemed to be more about texture than the riot of colour we are used to from this designer. For me, the devil was in the detail, which was exquisite from crocheted ties, incredible head dresses, amazing hairstyles, quilting and needlework. The image I have chosen does not sum up the collection but I fell in love with this dress! Eudon Choi included plenty of billowing shapes in white cotton and leather, with textured baroque detail black pieces and even paisley headscarves- a modern take on a peasant style, perhaps.
KTZ’s collection was eclectic as always but in a monochrome palette for half of the show with furry textures, magical references, an urban traveller feel and very distinctive hats! Vibrant African-influenced print appeared in the second half of the collection as well as golden metallics and shearing; all borrowing touches from around the world. I have a real soft spot for Fyodor Golan and the duo’s attention to detail and devotion to craftsmanship is incredible- as well as them being super friendly! Their collection featured wintery fresh whites with intricate black detailing as well as minimalist white frills (following on from the SS13 trend) contrasted with structural gold and heavily embroidered mini dresses and gothic touches. My love affair with Fydor Golan continues.
Eudon Choi, Bora Aksu, KTZ and Fydor Golan
A different kind of girl
A little bit ladylike with lots of sumptuous fabric, PPQ, Sass & Bide and Jean-Pierre Bragaza provided some glamour for women who don’t want frou-frou gowns. These outfits will fit every mood and add va-va-voom to practical trousers as well as offer sleek dresses to lust over.
PPQ was a riot of Warhol-esque colour with pop art coloured coats seemingly inspired by different historical periods. But I fell in love with a monochrome coat that Jackie-O would have gone crazy for. The dresses were classic PPQ: tight, revealing and colourful, although there were also gathered bubble skirt shapes that didn’t do it for me. But a great collection for fun party girls.
For a completely different girl: if I was heading to a red carpet event I’d call Alice Palmer for a modern take on Art Deco with just the right amount of peek-a-book in the sheer chevrons. Jean-Pierre Braganza was understated, elegant with sleek geometric prints, a few oriental-inspired patterns, sharp suits and a lot of cool. As well as the perfect clothes, you have to check out the precision centre partings and models’ amazing smoky eye make-up. I’d like to be a Braganza girl.
And last but not least, more trousers! Sass & Bide gave us a surprisingly sunny winter collection and why not? I loved the neat blazers and lounge pants as well as the matchy-matchy full on stripy separates. If you read my blog regularly, you’ll know that I’m a sucker for stripes. As well as slinky metallic kits and patent leather details, I’ll be rocking a pop of sunshine yellow in my winter wardrobe this year!
New was to be a lady! Thanks Sass & Bide, PPQ, Alice Palmer and Jean-Pierre Braganza
Over-and-out for now. I’ll bring you more blogs and a day 2 round-up once I’ve limped back from Somerset House…Day 2 is my trainer day!